Flaky Buttermilk Biscuits

Method

1. Position an oven rack in the center and heat the oven to 450 degrees F (230 degrees C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and sugar until evenly combined.

3. Scatter the cold cubed butter over the flour and, using your fingertips or a pastry cutter, work it in until the mixture looks like coarse crumbs with some pea-sized pieces of butter remaining. Those butter pieces create steam pockets that make the biscuits flaky.

4. Pour in the cold buttermilk and stir gently with a fork just until a shaggy, slightly sticky dough forms. Stop mixing the moment there are no dry patches, because overmixing makes tough biscuits.

5. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and pat it into a rough rectangle about 1 inch thick. Do not knead it like bread.

6. Fold the dough in thirds like a letter, then pat it out again to 1 inch thick, and repeat this fold two more times. These folds build the flaky layers.

7. Pat the dough a final time to a 1 inch thickness. Dip a 2.5 inch round cutter in flour and press straight down without twisting, since twisting seals the edges and stops the rise.

8. Cut out biscuits and place them on the baking sheet with their sides just touching, which helps them rise up rather than out. Gather scraps gently and cut a few more.

9. Brush the tops with melted butter and bake for 14 to 16 minutes until the tops are deep golden brown and the layers have risen tall.

10. Remove the biscuits from the oven and brush them once more with any remaining melted butter for a glossy, rich finish.

11. Let the biscuits cool for 5 minutes, then serve warm. Pull them apart at the layers rather than cutting for the best texture.

Cooking times vary by equipment -- cook to temperature and to taste.