Chicken Chow Mein

Method

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the noodles according to the package directions, usually 3 to 5 minutes, until just tender but still a little chewy. Drain in a colander, rinse briefly under cold water to stop the cooking, and toss with a few drops of oil so they do not clump.

2. Put the sliced chicken in a bowl with the Shaoxing wine, cornstarch, and 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce. Stir to coat and let it sit for 10 minutes so the meat stays tender.

3. In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 tablespoons soy sauce, the oyster sauce, dark soy sauce if using, sugar, and sesame oil. This is your finishing sauce, so keep it near the stove.

4. Heat a wok or large skillet over high heat until it is very hot, then add 1 tablespoon of the neutral oil and swirl to coat. Add the chicken in a single layer and stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes until cooked through and lightly golden, then transfer to a plate.

5. Add another 1 tablespoon oil to the hot pan and toss in the garlic, cooking for about 15 seconds until fragrant. Add the cabbage and carrot and stir-fry for 2 minutes until they begin to soften but still have crunch.

6. Add the bean sprouts and scallions and stir-fry for 1 more minute, keeping the heat high so the vegetables sear rather than steam.

7. Push the vegetables to one side, add the last 1 tablespoon oil, and add the drained noodles to the cleared space. Let them sit for 30 seconds to catch a little color, then start tossing.

8. Return the chicken to the pan and pour the sauce evenly over everything. Toss with tongs or two spatulas for about 2 minutes, lifting and folding, until the noodles are evenly coated and heated through.

9. Taste and add a splash more soy sauce if it needs salt, then transfer to a platter and serve hot.

Cooking times vary by equipment -- cook to temperature and to taste.