Cacio e Pepe

Method

1. Bring a large 6-quart pot with about 3 quarts of water and 2 teaspoons of salt to a boil over high heat. Use slightly less water than usual so it becomes extra starchy, which helps the sauce.

2. While the water heats, put the coarsely ground black pepper in a large 12-inch skillet over medium heat and toast it for about 1 minute, stirring, until it smells fragrant -- this deepens its flavor.

3. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the package time for al dente, usually 9 to 11 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Ladle about 1 cup of the starchy pasta water into the skillet with the toasted pepper and let it simmer for a moment; this pepper broth will become the base of the sauce.

5. In a separate medium bowl, put the finely grated Pecorino and add about 1/4 cup of the warm pasta water, stirring with a fork into a smooth, thick paste. Getting the cheese wet slowly prevents clumping.

6. When the pasta is al dente, use tongs to lift it directly into the skillet with the pepper water (a little extra water clinging to the pasta is good). Reserve the rest of the pasta water.

7. Toss the pasta in the skillet over low heat for about 1 minute so it soaks up the peppery liquid, then turn off the heat and let the pan cool for 30 seconds.

8. Add the Pecorino paste to the pasta and toss vigorously with tongs, adding a splash of reserved pasta water as needed, until a creamy sauce forms and coats every strand.

9. If the cheese clumps, keep tossing and add small splashes of warm (not boiling) pasta water; patience and motion bring it back into a smooth sauce.

10. Taste and adjust with more pepper if you like, then serve right away in warmed bowls with a final dusting of Pecorino.

Cooking times vary by equipment -- cook to temperature and to taste.