Yangzhou Fried Rice

Method

1. The day before, cook the rice and spread it on a tray to cool, then refrigerate it uncovered so the grains dry out and firm up; cold day-old rice fries up separate instead of mushy.

2. Break up any clumps of cold rice with your fingers so every grain is loose, then set the bowl beside the stove along with all your other prepped ingredients.

3. Heat a wok or large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and add 1 tablespoon of the neutral oil. Add the shrimp and stir-fry for about 90 seconds until they turn pink and opaque, then scoop them out onto a plate.

4. Add another 1 tablespoon oil, pour in the beaten eggs, and let them set for a few seconds before scrambling into soft curds, about 45 seconds. Transfer the eggs to the plate with the shrimp.

5. Add the last 1 tablespoon oil and raise the heat to high. Add the carrot and the white parts of the scallions and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the char siu and peas and toss for another minute.

6. Add the cold rice and press it against the hot pan, then toss and stir constantly for 2 to 3 minutes until the grains are steaming hot and beginning to dance and jump in the pan.

7. Drizzle the soy sauce around the edge of the pan rather than directly on the rice, so it sizzles and toasts, then toss to color the grains evenly.

8. Return the shrimp and eggs to the pan, breaking the eggs into smaller pieces, and add the salt, white pepper, and sesame oil. Toss everything together for 1 more minute until well combined and heated through.

9. Turn off the heat, scatter the green scallion tops over the top, give one final toss, and serve immediately while piping hot.

Cooking times vary by equipment -- cook to temperature and to taste.